Readers of Boomer and Echo are likely familiar with term life insurance (see B&E’s previous article on insurance). In years past, simply going to a life insurance shopping website and comparing premiums was sufficient – and that article talks about doing exactly that.
But things have changed. Companies are tinkering with their term life insurance policies, resulting in a marketplace where different policies may have different options that may have value. Further, a variety of strategies are available that can result in additional cost savings above and beyond just ‘the cheapest’.
Note: Unlike many products and services, premiums are actually poorly correlated with policy benefits. That means that policies with lower premiums may actually have more benefits than other policies.
Here’s a collection of things you should be considering when purchasing term life insurance; some are important policy provisions that don’t cost anything, others are strategies that can save you money.
Renewable and convertible term life insurance
Renewable policies are term policies which continue in force after the term, but at a higher premium. Convertible term policies have a provision that lets you exchange the term for a permanent life insurance policy, without taking a medical exam. Both of these are provisions that impact what happens at the end of the term, not the start of the term.
Initially we assume that we need life insurance coverage for the term. At the end of the term we’ll cancel because we don’t need the life insurance any longer. But over the course of the next 20-30 years we split into three groups:
- The first group are those where everything went well. No need for insurance, no desire for insurance, so we cancel.
- The second group are those that change their mind and decide they want permanent insurance. For those, conversion is an easy switch over to permanent since there’s no medical exam.
- The third group are those that become uninsurable during the term. If that’s you, the guaranteed ability to purchase permanent life insurance, at healthy rates, without a medical exam using the conversion option, is huge.
Related: When life insurance is sold, not bought
We don’t know know which group you will fall into 20-30 years from now, so make sure your term policy is renewable and convertible when you purchase it – that’s your guarantee that if you become uninsurable, you can actually still get life insurance at the end of your term.
Term Layering
A typical term policy assumes both coverage and premiums are level for the term. But what if you want a decreasing amount of coverage over time? Rather than purchasing a term policy and decreasing the coverage later, it’s cheaper to purchase two types of term insurance in one policy (i.e. a term 10 and a term 20).
Example: We want $1,000,000 for 10 years, and then reducing to $500,000 for the following 10 years. Assume a male 45 nonsmoker:
No Layering:
- First 10 years: $137.61 for Term 20 $1,000,000
- Second 10 Years: $71.87 by reducing the coverage from $1MM to $500K.
Layering:
- First 10 Years: $106.30 ($500K Term 20 + $500K Term 10)
- Second 10 years: $71.87 (Cancel the $500K Term 10 Layer, leaving only the $500K Term 20)
That’s $30/month over the next 10 years!
Backdating
Backdating is a process where you reset the start of a life insurance policy to a date in the past. This is as opposed to starting the policy when it’s issued.
With backdating, you’ll also pay the premiums for the policy starting from the date you backdated the policy to – so you’re paying premiums for coverage you never had. Why would anyone do this? A: To save premiums based on your age.
Most life insurance companies use your closest date of birth for premium calculation. If you’re 45 on January 1, then on July 1 (six months later) your life insurance premiums will be calculated at age 46.
So what if we’re purchasing a policy on July 2nd (now you’re 46 for life insurance purposes), and know that the policy won’t actually be issued for another few weeks? Well, if you’re close to this six months since your last birthday, here’s where backdating comes in. When you purchase your term 20 policy, you request that the policy be backdated to July 1st – back to when your life insurance age was still age 45.
Say the policy gets issued on August 1st. If you don’t backdate, your premiums for your policy are $153.45 for 20 years.
But instead, we backdate and tell the company to start the policy on July 1. Now your premiums are $137.61 for the next 20 years – but you had to pay an extra $137.61 upfront for the month of July. You’ve paid $137.61 upfront to reduce your premiums by $16/month for the next 20 years. That’s a fair bit of savings over many years.
My general rule of thumb is that backdating is worthwhile for most people for up to a maximum of two months premiums. After that, most people are unwilling to pay that large of an upfront cost to lower their premiums. But less than two months – absolutely something you should consider if you’re about six months since your last birthday.
Smoking and Temporary Ratings
If your premiums are higher due to smoking or to a rating that could be reconsidered (weight, some activities, etc) then you can take advantage of the ‘exchange option’ available with some companies term policies. The exchange lets you switch from a short term policy to a longer term policy, generally in the first 5 years.
The strategy is as follows; rather than purchasing your preferred longer term at smoking premiums or with the rating, instead go with the shortest term policy you can obtain (which will be a term 10). The term 10 policy at smoking premiums will be cheaper than a term 20 or term 30 at smoking premiums.
Later, quit smoking and requalify your term policy to non-smoking (or non-rated) premiums. At the same time, take advantage of the exchange option and jump to your longer term. That results in a non-smoking policy with the correct 20 or 30 year term, but until you’re a nonsmoker you’re paying much lower term 10 premiums.
Example:
You purchase a term 20, $1mm at age 35, smoking premiums, then qualify for nonsmoking premiums at age 37. Your premiums start at $185/month, then reduce to $54/month for the remainder of the term after you qualify for nonsmoking premiums.
Versus:
You purchase a term 10 at smoking premiums then at age 37 qualify at nonsmoking premiums and at the same time exchange to a term 20. Your premiums are $82/month, then change to $65 for the next 20 years. That’s about $100/month savings until you quit smoking, for the same level of life insurance coverage.
Term Stacking (by The Term Guy)
This is a strategy that I’ve developed recently, and Boomer and Echo is the first place you’ll have seen it. It takes advantage of the exchange option and a peculiarity of some companies pricing – the ones that use your actual age instead of your ‘nearest’ age as I mentioned above.
So for this strategy, we will assume that you’re 45 on January 1. The strategy works best if you recently had a birthday, so we’ll assume that you’re purchasing a policy on January 2.
What we’re going to do is instead of purchasing a term 20 or term 30, is instead purchase a term 10 policy. Then just prior to your next birthday, we use the exchange option to jump to the desired term 20 or term 30.
Since your age hasn’t changed for insurance purposes, your premiums are still for a 45 year old. But until your next birthday, you’ve paid term 10 premiums for the same coverage – often a 50% premium savings in the first year.
Example:
Standard Term 20:
You become age 45 on January 1. On January 2 you purchase a term 20 policy for $1mm. Your premiums are $149.40 for 20 years.
Term Stacking:
You purchase a term 10 today and your premiums are only $81.90 until just prior to your next birthday, then exchange to a term 20 – and since you’re still 45, your premiums are now again $149.40. So with term stacking, we have the same coverage, same premiums long term, but we’ve saved $67.50 for about 11 months.
Bonus: When you exchange to a term 20, you’re getting a new 20 years at that point. So with term stacking not only do you save money, but your term 20 starts in a year and thus extends out another year at the end versus the first scenario. (i.e. you’ve got almost a term 21).
Or, to rephrase it, 20 years from now you have the option of continuing your life insurance at the same $149.40 for almost another year. And that’s a deal a lot of people would take at the end of their term.
Note: To implement term stacking, you need three things:
- a recent birthday
- life company uses actual age not age nearest
- life company allows for the exchange option in the first year
It may make sense to do term stacking for two years (i.e purchase a term 10 and the exchange to a term 20 or term 30 in two years instead of one), but you’ll have to run the numbers for your situation to find out for sure.
I’d suggest that readers of Boomer and Echo who are considering using a term life insurance policy use the above strategies as a checklist, run through each one and see which ones make sense for you – and then enjoy your savings on what you may have thought was just a commodity!
Glenn Cooke, BMath, MMT is The Term Guy. He’s an independent life insurance broker in the insurance business since 1986, and working with clients directly since 2006.
Over the holidays I made a spending and savings plan for the new year. I reviewed our previous year’s finances and incorporated our new financial goals for the year. My wife and I discussed our “rich life” vision – what we want to do more of, what we what to do less of, what new things we want to try – all in an effort to ensure we continue funding a good life for our family.
As business owners, we start by estimating our expected revenue and expenses for the year. Next, we look at our personal spending and saving needs (I use this annual budget spreadsheet).
For instance, we want to catch up on one year of RESP contributions for our oldest daughter. We have big travel plans for which we need to appropriately budget. We also started using Fresh Prep and getting two meal kits delivered every week to save time.
That gives us a good sense of how much to pay ourselves for the year to make all of that work. Having everything planned out in advance is helpful for business owners, who too often dip into the piggy bank known as their corporate chequing account throughout the year without much thought to tax consequences.
We know exactly how much we’ll pay ourselves, which means we can properly estimate our personal taxes and pay the appropriate quarterly instalments to match.
We’ve always spent below our means, but now that our “means” have increased we want to make sure we’re maximizing our life enjoyment. That requires a delicate balance of spending and saving.
I’ve learned a lot working with hundreds of retirees over the years. Many have over-saved throughout their careers and can’t bring themselves to spend more in retirement. I don’t want to go through life spending a certain amount, only to discover I can safely spend double that amount in retirement. I’m looking for more of a balance.
I’ve also been influenced by Ramit Sethi’s rich life mantra, and more recently the Money Scope podcast’s early episodes on planning and living a good life.
It sparked our decision to move into a new home, custom built in the exact location we wanted to live. We wanted a dedicated home office and gym for our new work-from-home life.
It’s also the reason behind giving ourselves a raise both last year and this year. Business owners have a tendency to keep their compensation level from year-to-year. But we can’t pretend inflation and lifestyle creep don’t exist. We have to be honest with ourselves.
Funding a good life also includes a healthy budget for annual travel. We talk about the places we want to go, both new trips and return visits. Since we know that we’ll travel extensively every year, there’s less pressure to see it all in one trip. Slow travel is more our style, anyway.
As a former cheapskate frugal person I’ve had to give myself permission to spend more without the guilt and anxiety. I know that if I don’t start exercising my spending muscles now, it will be even more difficult to do so in retirement.
That’s where the spending and savings plan comes into play. I’m a planner, and always will be. By mapping out our expected income, expenses, and savings contributions I have a clear view of our finances for the year.
I know that we can meet our personal spending goals to fund a good life while still achieving our savings goals for the year. We’re not going to trip and fall into bankruptcy because we took an extra vacation or paid for one of the kids to get braces.
This Week’s Recap:
I updated our net worth for the end of 2023.
I also posted our investment returns for 2023.
Zoo(m) calls pic.twitter.com/gREdTr3uiN
— Boomer and Echo (@BoomerandEcho) January 12, 2024
Promo of the Week:
The past year or so has been tough sledding for credit card churners looking for attractive new sign-up offers and welcome bonuses. Many lucrative credit card deals dried up last year, with credit card issuers increasing minimum spend requirements and also the length of time it takes to reach those minimums.
The best offer I’ve seen is for small business owners and it’s the American Express Business Gold Rewards Card (<–scroll to the bottom and click “explore other cards”).
Earn a whopping 75,000 Membership Rewards points when you spend $5,000 within the first three months.
Transfer those points to Aeroplan where you can typically redeem them at 2 cents per mile. That’s $1,500 in value ($1,301 when you subtract the $199 annual fee). Not a bad return on $5,000 spending.
Do you need to have an incorporated business to qualify? No! Sole proprietors and side hustlers are welcome.
Sign-up for the American Express Business Gold Rewards Card here.
Weekend Reading:
A good one to start the year from Dr. Preet Banerjee. Want a financially healthy 2024? Add these six items to your to-do list.
A Wealth of Common Sense blogger Ben Carlson updates his favourite performance chart for 2023. I always love to see the asset class quilt of returns.
Emily Stewart at Vox says our expectations around money are all out of whack – why you don’t need everything you want.
Visual Capitalist charts the top 10 retirement planning mistakes. Number one – underestimating the impact of inflation, followed closely by underestimating how long you will live.
Paul Samuelson on the 4% rule – neat, plausible, and wrong:
“I can think of one case that supports a “withdrawal rule.” It is a single retired person with safe investments and consistent Social Security, pension and/or annuity payments.”
Speaking of flawed rules, here’s Ben Carlson’s take on Coast Fire – the strategy of front loading your retirement contributions early and then “coast” to retirement.
PWL Capital’s Ben Felix helps investors decide how to invest a lump sum of money:
Rob Carrick says people keep making this costly TFSA mistake – and paying penalties averaging almost $1,500.
Millionaire Teacher Andrew Hallam shares a retirement haven for the rich and the budget conscious.
Finally, Aaron Hector shares these tax planning quick facts and common strategies for the upcoming 2023 tax season.
Have a great weekend, everyone!
Your current year’s RRSP contribution limit is 18% of your previous year’s earned income, to a maximum of $31,560 (2024) plus any unused contribution room carried forward from previous years. There’s some confusion around the RRSP over contribution limit and RRSP carry forward rules. This post explains both of these rules.
RRSP Over Contribution Limit
You are allowed to over contribute a cumulative lifetime total of $2,000 to your RRSP without incurring a penalty tax. An RRSP over contribution is not deductible from your current year’s income, but the advantage is that you can add extra cash into your RRSP, where it can grow on a tax-deferred basis.
RRSP over contributions can be deducted in a subsequent year when your actual RRSP contribution is less than the maximum allowed.
A penalty tax of 1% per month applies to the amount of an RRSP over contribution exceeding $2,000. If you think you may have over contributed to your RRSP, contact an accountant to determine the steps you need to take.
The calculation of the penalty tax and filing of forms to withdraw the excess amount is not part of the normal personal tax return process.
An RRSP over contribution can be an effective tax strategy; however you are usually better off paying down non tax deductible debt first, like your credit card or mortgage. If you decide to over contribute to your RRSP, work with your accountant or financial advisor to ensure you stay within the allowable limit.
One of the reasons the government allows RRSP over-contributions is to provide you with a cushion against possible errors and unforeseen events, like a pension adjustment (PA).
Consider using your $2,000 RRSP over-contribution when you quit working. The earned income you have in your final year of employment will entitle you to an RRSP deduction in the following year.
RRSP Carry Forward Rules
For most Canadians, it’s not always possible to make a full RRSP contribution in any given year. If you don’t contribute the maximum allowable to your RRSP in any year, you can carry the unused portion forward indefinitely.
This means that if you were eligible to contribute $10,000 each year from 2013 to 2023, but you only contributed $5,000 each year, you will be able to contribute an additional $50,000 over and above your annual maximum limit.
If you are expecting a change in your income in the near future that will bump you into a higher tax bracket, it might make sense to delay your RRSP contributions until then. In this case, it’s important to consider the loss of tax-sheltered investment growth by putting off your contributions.
To accumulate RRSP contribution room, you must file an income tax return. If you have earned income for RRSP purposes, but you are not required to file an income tax return, you should consider filing anyway. While an RRSP may not be a significant consideration at this point, there will likely be a time when you have enough cash to make a contribution and can benefit from the deduction.
If you had low taxable income in 2023, but enough cash to make an RRSP contribution, consider making the contribution before the RRSP deadline but don’t claim the deduction for 2023.
As long as the amount isn’t claimed as a deduction, your unused contribution room remains intact. You can still claim the deduction in a future year, preferably when your taxable income is higher. In the meantime, the investments inside your RRSP will grow on a tax-deferred basis.